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Here is information I have collected while working on my m1009, but this information can be used for m1008,m1028, m1028A, and any of the cucv series.The CUCV (Commercial Utility Cargo Vehicle) was manufactured by General Motors for the U.S. Government from 1984-1986. They were built from the heaviest duty parts of GM’s light commercial truck division. Hey guys,I recently purchased an ’86 1009 and have scoured the tm’s provided here to no avail. There is a silver box (roughlt 5 or 6 inches long and 2-3 inches wide located on the passenger side fire wall by the positive and negative blocks. Problem is there is what looks like a vacuum fitting on the top left of box, but nothing attached.

The truck seems to shift a little hard at slower speeds (trans. Fluid is good) could this be a transmission vacuum line? If not where should it go, or should it be capped?Thanks all!Angela.

The silver box on the passenger side is your fuel filter. They are known to start leaking in the part that mounts to the firewall so be sure to check to see if it is leaking. A common mod is to replace the fuel filter base with a new screw on or cartridge style filer assembly. The vacuum line for the transmission goes from the vacuum pump located in the valley of the motor near the firewall (its hard to see with the air box on) to the passenger side of the injection pump (the vacuum modulator valve).

This valve controls the amount of vacuum the transmission sees based throttle position to allow the transmission to know how much load the engine is under and then vary the shifts accordingly. From there the line is a series of rubber and steel lines down the passenger side of the motor to the vacuum modulator on the transmission. I would trace the lines and see if the rubber sections are dry rotted or broken. You might also need to adjust the vacuum modulator on the transmission or the valve on the side of the injector pump. FYI firm shifts are better for the transmission than soft/smooth sifts because the clutches are slipping for a smaller amount of time.

Converting the system to 12v is basically just changing the starter, removing the glow plug resistor bank behind the engine on the firewall, wiring the batteries in parallel, and removing one of the alternators. The rest of the truck is 12v from the factory. There isn’t much benefit to converting the system to 12v as 90% of the truck is already 12v and the 24v starting system is a little better in the cold as far as I can tell.

I would assume he wants to convert it to make it easier to work on, but the 24v system is pretty straightforward to learn, plus it keeps the truck more original. Hey, all!Just brought home my 1985 m1008 6.2L today. Drove it for the first time (no test-drive allowed), a 60-mile trip home, and no issues, thankfully! However, I was painfully aware of the rpms being so high, even at 55mph. No tachometer built in, but the engine was humming at a pretty high pitch.What kind of rpms are you getting at higher freeway speeds?

I can’t imagine they’re very good for the engine; is it simply that the 3-speed transmission is not designed for highway driving? Would a whole new transmission be needed if I were to drive 55mph+ regularly?Thanks for responding; this is one of the only sites I’ve found with people posting real-world experiences with the CUCV’s.Thanks Miles, and all!Jeremy. Hey,Thanks for the thanks.

Assuming you are running stock 31″ tires with the 4.56 gears in the stock axles you are running about 2872rpm at 55mph. That is pretty fast for that engine. The engine makes max torque around 1800-2200rpm which also roughly where you will get best milage. At 2250rpm you are running about 43mph.

I would say if you plan on taking it on trips or what not regearing the axles,changing the tire size, or swapping transmissions might be a good option. The M1008 is built for low speeds and lots of torque. This website is pretty helpful for checking what drivetrain combinations you might want:I run 4.10 gears and 36″ tires which puts me at about 2200 rpm at 55mph and thats usually what I cruise at, but I tend to be a little conservative since my driveshaft angles are also pretty dramatic. I would defiantly run a cooler. I run one for rock crawling and driving when its 105+.f outside. They aren’t too hard to install, basically all it involves is plumbing the fluid from the outlet on the radiator cooler to the input on the air cooler and then the output from that to the return line to the transmission. Mounting the cooler is up to you, but usually involves driving a few holes in the radiator support and running some flat strap to suspend the cooler in front of the radiator.

I would get the biggest cooler you can find/can afford.This isn’t the best picture, but you can see my cooler behind the grille. The best way to prevent the transmission from running too cold is to run the transmission fluid through the radiator cooler and then the air-cooler. The heat exchanger in the radiator also helps warm cold fluid since the water in the radiator is 190.f. I believe they do make thermostats if you really want to get serious about keeping your transmission warmer in the winter. I don’t run a trans temp gauge on this truck ( I do on my cummins) but I do run an engine temp gauge and put the sensor where the sensor for the idiot light was. If you did want to run a trans temp gauge the best temp to read is the hot line out of the transmission as close to the torque converter as possible.

This will give you the hottest temp of any fluid in the transmission and an early indication when things start to get hot. I’m not sure on part numbers for the M1010 as they are different than the rest of the CUCV series due to their 200A charging system, but I did find some info from user HoJoPo on steelsoldiers.comNeeding some for my M1010, I was able to find some information about the alternator belts, cross referencing the part number from the maintenance pub:Top alternator belt, 42-6919,.5 width, 59 inches outside length.Bottom alternator belt, 42-6921,.650 width, 51.250 inches outside length.As for batteries, anything that fits in the tray and its at least 750-800CCA should work.

MilesHello again!Ref; the last question, your suggestions etc.I was talking with a USAR Mech at the Milwaukee USAR center in Milwaukee this past week, they have a small PX so stop by sometimes, mentioned the problem and he mentioned also it could be the rear, rear most drive shaft U Joint is losse, should be replaced? Which checking when I got home does have a small slip to it,noticed also it was a small slip to it when I greased that area, rear most U joint, so maybe that could be a possible problem? He also as you mentioned the front wheel bearings, seals maybe should be changed / replaced, not knowing when and if? It was or ever had been done?Everything with the steering front system is tight and not losse that I can see or find out, needed a good grease job for sure and I should replace the seals / boots as needed sometime, hard to know when it was done last for sure? A former WI National Guard M 1009, lack of care, the Fort McCoy base Maint.folks used it also for running around post I found out when I got it up there.Was from the WI 32 Bde, former Milwaukee based unit.Thank you, Ralph. 7 12 2012Hello,Today I finally took my M1009 CUCV 1984 out for a good test drive, fianlly the collector WI plates arrived to do so!Engine runs fine, electiric good, trans fine and all in order.The only item that I noticed is that 40 to 45 and above MPH the front shakes? And steering coloum.Lower speeds fine.I did notice that none of the wheels have weights?Maybe could be the problem?Suggestions please?Also I have just gotten a ” Shift Indicator ” kit NSN 2540-01-147-5537,GM # 25078571I did look at the TM, not really good INFO?Suggestions please how to install!Thank you!Ralph GRetired USA.

Sounds like a pretty classic case of “death wobble” I would check the ball joints, tie rod, drag link, and the rest of the steering system. I would also check the lug nuts and wheel bearings.

If it is just a slight vibration then it could be the unbalanced wheels, but from your description it sounds more serious than that.As for the shift indicator, if you remove the dash panel (screws all around the perimeter) then you can access the shift indicator fairly easily.—MilesHello again!I was talking with a USAR Mech at the Milwaukee USAR center in Milwaukee this past week, they have a small PX so stop by sometimes, mentioned the problem and he mentioned also it could be the rear, rear most drive shaft U Joint is losse, should be replaced? Which checking when I got home does have a small slip to it,noticed also it was a small slip to it when I greased that area, rear most U joint, so maybe that could be a possible problem?

He also as you mentioned the front wheel bearings, seals maybe should be changed / replaced, not knowing when and if? It was or ever had been done?Everything with the steering front system is tight and not losse that I can see or find out, needed a good grease job for sure and I should replace the seals / boots as needed sometime, hard to know when it was done last for sure?

A former WI National Guard M 1009, lack of care, the Fort McCoy base Maint.folks used it also for running around post I found out when I got it up there.Was from the WI 32 Bde, former Milwaukee based unit.Thank you, Ralph. Hey guys i was woondering if someone can help me i have a 1985 m1009 cucv.

One day when i was driving i got stopped at a light. As i was waiting for the light the truck just shut off.

When i tryed to restart the truck there was no power at all. So i figured that maybe the alt was bad and the batterys have died so i tryed to jump the truck and got nothing.

So i have started pokin around with my power probe to find out that both batterys are fulled charged. But i still dont have any power. I mean the headlight or dash lights wont even flicker. I have check the fuse box under the dash and i have power to a couple fuse. I have been to a couple sites and can not seem to find a wiring digram on this truck. So i ask all u chevy lovers please help me out if u kno something or have had this problem. Thanks anthony.

4 6 2012Hello,I am trying to reaplace the driiver side door glass on my 1984, CUCV M 1009, reading the TM 9 – 2320 – 289 – 20, pages 10-23 thru 26 seem some what confuseing?What is the best way to install the channel and glass back in?Suggestions please!Would be nice if the holes to be able to get your hands were larger?Should the glass window channel be glued on the glass?Picked some of the rubber channel from the OMS shop at the USAR in Milwaukee, WI. Nice guys for some help, but don’t want to bother them to much, was given some new PS PUBS also. New of course, not for the CUCV’s like I remember there was many up dates for them etc! Ground breakers baseball team 2017.

Wish I would have taken them with me when I retired from the USA! I think 72 pages alone were related for the CUCV family.Thank you, Ralph Geigner West Bend, WI. I have a 1985, M1009 and recently I have noticed a small leak from under the steering wheel area. Pirates in love fanfiction.

What looks and feels like oil is on right side of the driver side floor mat, it seems to appear when I get in the tuck in the morning. Is this typical? I heard leaks will arise and happen, but I still want to address and identify what exactly is going on. Does anyone know what is going on here or has anyone encountered the same issue?

I thank you for this site, and the chance to find hard to get info!

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